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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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ChilliumBromide
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6120. PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I'm doing with my designs is making a 1/4" layer specifically for the wires to go in. Figure out where all your wires will need to go (if you have buttons in the bar, keep that in mind), then get a 1/4" piece of plywood, cut it as needed, and put it on top of the baseboard.
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DMS
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6121. PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright. Also, with the wiring for the matr1x sensors, how exactly does it work? I know you run an active wire from one bracket, and a ground from the other, but how exactly do you keep them on? Electrical tape? Solder? Glue? Also, what do I ground all the wires to? Do I reserve a panel well for some small screws to act as grounds? And with 5 sensors per arrow well for the actual arrow(not lights), how do I wire them all together? And is there a guide to doing the lighting, or will I have to wing it?
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ChilliumBromide
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6122. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DMS wrote:
Alright. Also, with the wiring for the matr1x sensors, how exactly does it work? I know you run an active wire from one bracket, and a ground from the other, but how exactly do you keep them on? Electrical tape? Solder? Glue? Also, what do I ground all the wires to? Do I reserve a panel well for some small screws to act as grounds? And with 5 sensors per arrow well for the actual arrow(not lights), how do I wire them all together? And is there a guide to doing the lighting, or will I have to wing it?
Solder your wires to the sides of the brackets for best results. Light using Cold Cathode bulbs. Buy a breadboard at a local hobby shop or something and have a hollow center panel; wire all your circuits to that. As for what sensors do what, have the inner side sensor and 4 corner sensors wired to the button, and the remaining side sensors wired to the lights. Your lights might not light up every time, but that's pretty secondary. You can wire all the sensors in the well together however you like; it really doesn't matter.
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neuter_man
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6123. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:20 am    Post subject: Quick Question Reply with quote

Building a new pad, plan on having the top part of the frame routed. Only problem is that I'd like to put some sort of edge on the arrows so they aren't so open on the sides. Y'know, so the innards of the arrow are showing if you were looking at the pad from the side. I think it'd help with the dust issue as well. But, still, any suggestions as to how I should do this?
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ChilliumBromide
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6124. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:53 am    Post subject: Re: Quick Question Reply with quote

neuter_man wrote:
Building a new pad, plan on having the top part of the frame routed. Only problem is that I'd like to put some sort of edge on the arrows so they aren't so open on the sides. Y'know, so the innards of the arrow are showing if you were looking at the pad from the side. I think it'd help with the dust issue as well. But, still, any suggestions as to how I should do this?
Simply make sure to make the base 1" bigger than needed on each side, then build up the borders as you build the rest of the pad. That's one fairly easy way to do it. If you're using a thicker pad, you could get a couple pine, maple, or cedar planks, cut 'em to size, and just screw 'em to the side of the pad. Attach metal plating as desired.
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neuter_man
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6125. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 9:58 am    Post subject: Ah. Reply with quote

SoymilkCharlie, I have to thank you for your wonderful suggestion. Now my only predicament is finding what material should be used for the base, I'm looking for something lightweight, as it would need to be transported, any suggestions?
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ChilliumBromide
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6126. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd suggest 1/2" Fir Plywood. A 35"x35" base would weigh about 10lbs, and it's quite a bit stronger and cheaper than other plywoods. You may find, however, that it's not perfectly flat, which can be a problem with light pads. I'm not sure what would be the most effective way to fix that, but it sure as hell is annoying when your base squeaks every time you adjust your center.
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DMS
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6127. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Charlie, are there any blueprint images, or regular photos/videos that can aid in the wiring and whatnot? I am terrible at comprehending things like this via text. Sucks for me. lol
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ChilliumBromide
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6128. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here; I made this one just now for ya:


Red wire is the wire for the button. It can be ground or active. The top should be done exactly the same in layout.
And I frick up the lighting wiring on there. xP
Let someone who's actually awake help you. I'm not thinking straight.

Make sure your soldering is nice and snug. What you can do, if you have the tools to do so, is make a small cut (1/4" into the bracket, then stick the wire in it, and solder it there. This will provide a much better hold, but it's hard to do if you don't have at least a saber saw and a good clamp.
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DMS
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6129. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm... I think I understand it.. so, how many brackets, again? 4 corner brackets, and 3 straight?
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ChilliumBromide
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6130. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DMS wrote:
Hmm... I think I understand it.. so, how many brackets, again? 4 corner brackets, and 3 straight?
4 and 4, as shown. The circuitry for the lighting in that diagram WILL NOT WORK RIGHT.
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DMS
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6131. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And use the 4 corners, and the inner-most side sensor for the button, and the remaining 3 for the lights? Also, what are the best brand lights to use?
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neuter_man
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6132. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:16 pm    Post subject: Hrm. Reply with quote

SoymilkCharlie wrote:
I'd suggest 1/2" Fir Plywood. A 35"x35" base would weigh about 10lbs, and it's quite a bit stronger and cheaper than other plywoods. You may find, however, that it's not perfectly flat, which can be a problem with light pads. I'm not sure what would be the most effective way to fix that, but it sure as hell is annoying when your base squeaks every time you adjust your center.


Thanks for the suggestion, would pressboard or peg board be a decent alternative? From my experience, neither has ever had problems being flast.
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DMS
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6133. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Hrm. Reply with quote

neuter_man wrote:
SoymilkCharlie wrote:
I'd suggest 1/2" Fir Plywood. A 35"x35" base would weigh about 10lbs, and it's quite a bit stronger and cheaper than other plywoods. You may find, however, that it's not perfectly flat, which can be a problem with light pads. I'm not sure what would be the most effective way to fix that, but it sure as hell is annoying when your base squeaks every time you adjust your center.


Thanks for the suggestion, would pressboard or peg board be a decent alternative? From my experience, neither has ever had problems being flast.
Stay away from peg board. But, pressed board(with the little wood scraps all pressed and held together) would be a sturdy, light, cheap alternative to ply wood.
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neuter_man
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6134. PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 12:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Hrm. Reply with quote

DMS wrote:
neuter_man wrote:
SoymilkCharlie wrote:
I'd suggest 1/2" Fir Plywood. A 35"x35" base would weigh about 10lbs, and it's quite a bit stronger and cheaper than other plywoods. You may find, however, that it's not perfectly flat, which can be a problem with light pads. I'm not sure what would be the most effective way to fix that, but it sure as hell is annoying when your base squeaks every time you adjust your center.


Thanks for the suggestion, would pressboard or peg board be a decent alternative? From my experience, neither has ever had problems being flast.
Stay away from peg board. But, pressed board(with the little wood scraps all pressed and held together) would be a sturdy, light, cheap alternative to ply wood.


My father is telling me that pegboard and pressboard are both pretty sturdy and lightweight. From you've said here, I think you are talking about a material rather similar to plywood, and more than likely is prone to curving, which is the downfall of using plywood.

More than likely, I'll use pressboard for this pad, unless there is evidence proving otherwise.
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DMS
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6135. PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What thickness is the pad for ITG2? And how much room is on each side of the arrows('north', 'east', 'west', and 'south' directions of the pad? Dimensions of the ITG bar? And how could I get like the decals that go on the side of the pads? And do cathode bulbs come in different colors?
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ChilliumBromide
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6136. PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ITG panels are the same size as DDR panels. Order 10 7/8" square and build for 11 1/8" square.

I believe the pads are 3" thick. The bar's 38" high and 1.5" Don't know about the decals; you should be able to get them printed at Kinko's or something, and yes, Cold Cathode bulbs come in all colors. SVC has Blue, Red, Green, Ultraviolet, and White.
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DMS
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6137. PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoymilkCharlie wrote:
The ITG panels are the same size as DDR panels. Order 10 7/8" square and build for 11 1/8" square.

I believe the pads are 3" thick. The bar's 38" high and 1.5" Don't know about the decals; you should be able to get them printed at Kinko's or something, and yes, Cold Cathode bulbs come in all colors. SVC has Blue, Red, Green, Ultraviolet, and White.
Alright, 3" thick, 1/16" arrow recession, 38" tall bar, colored bulbs corresponding to the red/blue panels on the ITG decals. And what is SVC?

Also, any chance you know where I could get the image file for Kinko's to print? And can I bring the images to Kinko's on some sort of storage device like a CD, SD card, or something along those lines?
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ChilliumBromide
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6138. PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't really know the specifics for the decals, but as for what svc is, it's Silicone Valley Computers. svc.com.
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DMS
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6139. PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2007 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many bulbs per arrow? 2? And how would I mount them in the well?

EDIT: What about LED clusters? The ones with 5 LED's already in the mount? I figure get two of those per arrow would work. Not sure if it would be more effective than cathode, though.
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