Devout Stealth homepad

Tenchi50 · Posted: Tue May 29, 2007 6:44 pm Post subject:

i talked to my dad about it earlier, and i'm gonna build one(or maybe two) stealths in a couple weeks when i get back from GA.

everything looks awesome on it from what i've seen.

and depending on how it goes, I may develop a 360 pad based off it ;]

and possibly built two for my school instead of getting the DT610's, it'd certainly save money, though it wouldnt be anything like arcade style.

DragonFlame87 · Basic Member Joined: 30 May 2007

My only concern with this design would be the possibility of denting the metal, I don't know if you could play with the stealth design in shoes. Wouldn't it be very easy to put a small dent into the metal and with the small clearance between the foil and metal wouldn't this cause a large issue?

RespectJSB · Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 11:34 am Post subject:

I don't think he ever specified this one way or another, but you can certainly use shoes with a stealth pad. Once you have the sheet metal piece screwed down to the board, it hardly moves at all , so theres really no risk of denting the panel just by stepping on it with shoes. (now, whacking it with a hammer might be a different story..... )

KO

infamous360 · Trick Member Joined: 06 Mar 2007

has anybody made a stealth with recessed arrow? does this pad work with freezes?
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RespectJSB · Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 3:08 pm Post subject:

I made pseudo-recessed arrows on mine. What I did was put a washer under the corner screws of each of the non-arrow panels which raises them up a little higher (like 1/16") than the step arrows. I may go back and add another washer to recess them a little more because I still run into problems with my feet losing track of where they are at, causing me to miss steps. (this never happens to me at the arcades or on my riptide pads)

The freeze arrows work great on mine, they do not "die". as long as my foot is on the step it holds.

KO

infamous360 · Trick Member Joined: 06 Mar 2007

cool i might make a pair for 360
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devout · Trick Member Joined: 15 Dec 2006 Location: the atl

Tenchi50 · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 4:28 pm Post subject:

well i picked up most of the materials tonight for my pad, and i'm getting the rest tomorrow morning.

it should be done by the end of the week at the latest, and i'll post a video when i'm done.

damn i never thought MDF was so heavy...
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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

I've been considering the Stealth design and comparing it to my experiences with the original DT600, and I've realised a mutual problem. With the thin sheet steel, you're bound to eventually experience denting or warping. What I'm trying to do is figure out a material that could give the same effect of being pressed down then popping up without suffering damage over time. Are there any acrylic plastics that could provide that effect? Lexan is too stiff, and I'd say so is Plexiglas. So I'm thinking something more rubbery. Like the material used for golf discs (special frisbees, for the uninitiated), or milk jugs.

If anyone can find something on this, we could really evolve home play.
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Tenchi50 · Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:03 am Post subject:

If you have a way to cut/bend it, go to the heet metal section at lowes, and get some welding sheet metal, for got the exact name :/

i thought of getting some since it is heavier, and more than likely stronger, but i only have tin snips for cutting metal :]

or you could get some of that raised diamond sheet metal stuff that people use on their corner panels.
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RespectJSB · Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:35 am Post subject:

Devout could probably explain this in a better way, but here goes....
I think the problem with the diamond plate and the high guage sheet metal (16gauge, etc) is that the stuff is really rigid and won't bend or flex at ALL under normal dance pad conditions. and the sensor design in these pads requires some very slight give to the metal....

KO

Tenchi50 · Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:18 pm Post subject:

well mine's just about done, but i ran out of epoxy with one arrow panel left :/

so i'm going to finish it tomorrow and hopefully have pictures up tomorrow.

but sadly i can't play till next week. I ordered my EMS adaptor today so it wont be here till sometime next week

now to find a ps2 to play on

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Tenchi50 · Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:31 pm Post subject:

wellp

mine's finished,

but i can't wire up a controller to it till i figure where the ground location is :/

but here are some pics for whoever wants.

oh, feel free to add me.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=43159263&albumId=660403
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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Tenchi50 · Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 12:44 pm Post subject:

well mine's built, and my ems usb2 finally came, but nw it's not registering anything...

I installed the drivers that came with the adaptor, and set it to dance mode, doesnt work..any suggestions?
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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Go to start >> control panel >> Printers and other hardware >> game controllers

Look for a 2-axis, 16-button controller. If you see one, click on it. It should be your dance pad. Press buttons. Look at your screen to see if any of the numbered red circles light up. If not, there's something wrong with your pad.

If you don't see the controller, check the green LED light on the converter. If that's on, your converter works.

If the green light is on and it's not detecting your controller, plug in a normal PS2 controller. Test it out. If it doesn't work, there's something wrong with the port you're using. Make sure you're using the "game controller" port on the adapter. If you are, then try it with the "gun controller" port.

If it doesn't work, return the adapter.
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Tenchi50 · Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 6:18 am Post subject:

only 14 and 16 lit up, but i had an idea that i'm gonna try...

i tested it, and all of the panels work, but the problem is that they're always pressed, but i cant tighten my screws anymore, so i'm just gonne cut up a mousepad, and add it to the cardboard to keep the metal from contacting until i press. It'll take more force, but i play on my toes anyway
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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Well, I'm actually more talking about it being struck hard at one small point before the rest of your foot comes down (AKA not a problem if you flat foot). A lot of the time, you'll hit the panel with your toe or your heel pretty sharply before the rest of your foot comes down, and if the metal's really thin (like 30ga), it might dent in from the impact. The breaking point's an angle, not a distance, so if a small area is pressed in a small distance like 1/8", it might dent, although it wouldn't be a problem with a large area.

That's why I'm thinking rubber. It has a higher elasticity, which means that the breaking point is a much wider angle and a thicker piece will bend easily.

I did try to do some research on rubbers, but couldn't find anything helpful. I'm going to try and see what kinds I can buy by the sheet/roll and try to figure out what works best. I'll start with a thick linoleum, I think.
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