My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

kochinwu · Trick Member Joined: 25 Jun 2006 Location: Austin, TX

I am thinking to build one during my christmas break. But I have some questions.
What do I need for the wiring? Because in http://www.angelfire.com/mn2/arcadecontrols/ddr/wiring.html he uses some connectors?
So what I need is
1. a non-Sony controller
2. some wire (what kind of wire?)
3. what else?
Also what dose it mean by "ground"? Sorry I don't understand it.
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Hey ! I live in Austin Texas

MasterInuYasha · Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 10:50 pm Post subject:

I have a few questions:

I'm making one, Using a thicker frame, Not flat like most people do, I am going to cut out some lexan and makes my own panels.

Questions:

How thing should I go, I know 11x11'', but how thick?

Another, Making the sensors, how? I'm not going out and buying Arcade replacements, I'll be building my own

On the sensor part, How do I make the panel "rebound" so that way it's not always sitting on the sensor? keep in mind, this will be thick, So it won't bow in the middle like RO, or CF pads.

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

kochinwu:
1. get a used softpad for $5-$10.
2. copper wire, rubber coated.
3. lexan panels, hardwood base, steel frame, copper contacts

The ground wire is the basic line.
When it connects with one of the specific lines, an electric signal is sent to the motherboard, where the processing chip analyzes the signal, and determines which specific line came in contact with the basic line.
In other words, it's a neat way to save money on chips.

MasterInuYasha:
I still think 1/4" will be plenty with the lexan, and I've gotcha covered for the sensors; I'll try to remember to get 'em finished tomorrow.
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MasterInuYasha · Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 2:30 am Post subject:

kochinwu · Trick Member Joined: 25 Jun 2006 Location: Austin, TX

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Then you're not looking for non-sony, you're looking for a controller that has oppositional directions enabled for the D-pad.

It's not a finished product.
Eventually the wires are connected to the metal-to-metal sensors.
But while the base is under construction, the builder has them secured so that they won't get in the way.
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geckoinc99 · Trick Member Joined: 11 Feb 2005 Location: Chattanooga, TN

Keep this in mind when you're doing the wiring. Basically all you're doing is extending the buttons on the controller out to the places on the pad. You do this by running wire from the controller to the area where the button is. Each button will have two wires: a power wire and a common (or ground as it has been called). The common is a return path for the flow of electricity and always goes back to the same place, which is why all the buttons use the same common. This would be the negative side of a battery. For wire, I've used wiring from extra ethernet cables that were sitting around. They carry the signal just fine and you get 6 different color coded wires which makes hookup easier.

As for contacts, there are several designs, but they all have one thing in common: you are keeping two metal conductive surfaces apart until you press on the arrow. the designs range from sheetmetal on the top and bottom as DDRHomepad did (see page one for this), or you use the mending bracket design by Riptide (which is the method I most prefer), or the many others that have been done. Or you could create your own. As for bounce back material, people have used mouse pads, weather stripping, springs, and other things. Again, there's no right answer.

As for the thickness of the plexiglass, I don't see why anything past 1/4" is neccessary. Are you worried about flex? If so, just put a support piece in the middle underneath. This will stop the flex and also allow the plastic to support more. That's what I did for my pad and it has worked very well. Happy building.
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Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com

Odoth · Basic Member Joined: 24 Dec 2006

Well I'm pretty proud of myself. It took a loooot of work but I finished my pad. As you can see I haven't put any graphics in the arrows yet. I used the ddrhomepad design but added a start and back button at the front of the pad a la the Ignition pad I've been using until now. I ended up using 0.80 thickness acryllic instead of .093, but I'm not sure if it's making a difference.

The timing for the hard pad seems to be different than my ignition pad. It feels like i have to step before the beat on the hard pad for it to be perfect and it's not that easy to adjust. Has anybody else experienced this?
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caaaaaaa

The Wise Fool · Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 11:01 am Post subject:

Can anyone give me the measurements for the arcade pad's borders and bars?

Thelegendofsteve · Basic Member Joined: 09 Nov 2005

we have been issues with the sensors in my pad breaking. the sensors we used for the lights seem to be alright because they never go al the way down and they only have to go half way down to activate. we just had these laying around and would love to know if anyone knows where we can get some like these.

my pad put together http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y51/nevets934/SIMG0007.jpg

insides
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y51/nevets934/SIMG0002.jpg

insides showing which sensors we need to find
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y51/nevets934/sensors.gif

MasterInuYasha · Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:40 am Post subject:

DarkCore · Trick Member Joined: 28 Jul 2006 Location: Ontario, Canada

thelegendofnevets · Basic Member Joined: 14 Apr 2006

MasterInuYasha · Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 5:29 pm Post subject:

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Okay, so I actually have an issue, not an answer:

modding my tx's into a 4-panel arcade platform, I realised that I still have 9 uncracked panels.

What I was thinking was that perhaps I could combine them into one, while at the same time significantly increasing their durability. Here's how:

I get a thick drying tar (like asphault or something) and cover the back of the panel with the approriate graphic, letting it attach itself to the back of the panel tightly, then I put the other panel, the one that'll be on the bottom, on the other side, sandwiching the tar. I then get it so that the whole thing's about 1/2", and let it dry. What I then have would be a panel that's very tough, and will stay that way even if the plexiglas cracks, but at the same time has a bouncy core that'll make it feel less stiff, without losing solidity.

Does anyone here have any suggestions for what material to use to go in the middle? (I want it to be similar to what a running track is made of, so something rubbery when it dries, but also something moldable)
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slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

what about that stuff they use to seal up the cracks in between the sidewalk cracks?

not sure if thats actually moldable, but it comes in a tube like caulk

maybe caulk?
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Weston · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota

I'm back into pad building. This time, a completely new design. Pad features will include:
- Very sturdy frame
- Arrow panels remain flat with no bending (to help with stamina)
- Easy to build
- Need only solder to controller
- 2" height

I liked the Matrix switch design, so I'm going to use a modified version of it to accomodate this pad. Because of some of the pad features, a lighted design is not possible. I'm keeping photos so I can write up a guide for future pad builders. More to come when I finish!

MasterInuYasha · Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:42 pm Post subject:

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

nice pad

for whoever want(ed/s) a step by step plan for either my ddr pad or cab, lemme know

im in the process of making a web site for it, and im making it all from scratch, so ya...boy i love easy classes at school :-p

anyway, im not sure how much longer it'll take, but i will let everyone know when its done!

and im planning on fixing my friends tx style pads, so i may have a tut on that later

(and once im done id like someone to mirror the site if possible, just so it stays on the net, and i dont have to redo it

)
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