RedOctane Ignition v3.0 (PS/Xbox/PC)

[gerinis]

[SafeTinspector]

[PozerWolf]

Nice poopy on taking apart the mat guys.
But still... I'm not sure if I should do the same

[psisarah]

[gerinis]

[Zanshin]

I'm pretty sure that half the people that complain about these pads didn't bother to do what I did, EBT. Either way, it appeased my own curiosity.

So I suppose what to do now is to figure out a method of fixing this long term, without completely destroying the pad.
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Things fall apart; the center cannot hold; mere anarchy is loosed upon the world. Yeats

[PozerWolf]

[FoxFireX]

I've actually done complete foam replacements on three ignitions now, using some sturdy craft foam with a fabric backing. Nice, solid stuff. I think that will probably last longer than anything else, but it's a serious pain to cut out all the holes needed for it. Regardless, as for actually opening the pad, my recommendation is thus:

Open the pad and flip it upside down. You should be looking at the back of the top layer, probably white plastic. Using an Exacto knife, cut a small X in the very center of the pad, maybe a couple of inches long. Pull back a one of the flaps, then gently use the knife to extend each leg of the X all the way to the corners. You just want to cut the white plastic, not the sensor layers.

You should be able to fold the white plastic out of the way now, and can carefully cut around the outside of the sensor layer. Make sure you don't cut any traces, and don't cut the top edge (where the control box is). Just cut the left, right, and bottom edges, outside the circuitry. Now you can get in to the foam, add or replace as necessary. Once you're done, lay the sensor layer back down and tape it back in place (hopefully you have a little of the material left attached to the stitching), then fold the white plastic back in place and tape it down.

The main reason for using an X, then a U cut is to make sure you don't have weak points in the layers on top of each other. Helps reduce the chance of problems later on, in my experience.

[Zanshin]

The U cut is actually a much better idea than what I ended up doing (cutting a hole in the center of the plastic tracing and working from there...in case you want to do what I did though, go ahead. It pretty much completely fixed my stuck arrow problem, though I did kind of have to fix the traces.

Necessary supplies: Paper & Duct tape.

Fold a sheet of paper into a square roughly 1.5" a side. It should be about .25 to .5 inches thick. Duct tape it so it won't unfold, then tape it down, onto the foam, under the large cross on each button's trace outline. It was really more of a quick fix that I did for my school's DDR club pads (I run it using my pads, so yeah) in about 30 minutes time. I did manage to 18-great & 1-Boo Dynamite Rave -Down Bird SOTA Mix- this morning when I used the pads after the fix. What this essentially does is it creates extra padding in the center of the arrow (likely where the foam is the most compacted) and causes the sensor layers to separate like they should. The downside to this is that you feel a large bump in the center of each arrow, which is just a little bit weird.
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Things fall apart; the center cannot hold; mere anarchy is loosed upon the world. Yeats

[Edible Bondage Tape]

[gerinis]

[DJTyrant]

[gerinis]

[CoasterKrazy]

[Thomas Hobbes]

[gerinis]

My friend has some random 3rd party mat he bummed off his friend and it still lasted longer then both my Ignition 2 and 3.
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くちにいれない

[CoasterKrazy]

[Thomas Hobbes]

It's my fourth Ignition pad.
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"I am about to take my last voyage, a great leap in the dark."

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[Jedo]

How much better is it than the 2.0?
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At midnight all the agents and the superhuman crew, go to round up everyone who knows more than they do

[gerinis]