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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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whyrph
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2060. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm. .Riptide's videos aren't working yet again. All three mirrors are down. The first one times out, the second one's IP changed, and the third doesn't even have a DNS entry. Can someone host these for me? (and/or can the server owners get it fixed . . .).
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Corey | RanciD
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2061. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does Riptide's have buttons sunk the same depth as the arcade? The videos are down and I can't tell from the pictures. I'm really looking for the arcade feel.
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tolookah
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2062. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ddrkid - check the link in my sig, it gives all sorts of goodies for the madcatz beatpad pro (soldering info mostly)
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2063. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

right now, i have them flush. I added the foam inserts from the ignitions under the plexiglas... My feet *sometimes* get caught on the corner brackets, but it isn't bad enough to make me stop playing, regardless, I'll learn to manuever around it, *since my feet catch at the arcade too, it will help my arcade playing too*
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whyrph
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2064. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm .. I was thinking that to be cheap, I could say the hell with it to aesthetics and make the whole thing out of wood and plywood (with just enough metal for the contacts). The problem comes in with the buttons - is there a cheaper material than lexan that could substitute for it? It doesn't have to be plastic, doesn't need to be clear . .just needs to be able to bend enough. Lexan would cost about $100 bucks from what I've researched (no place to buy it here - home depot and lowes both stopped selling it). Acrylic wouldn't be that much cheaper. So if there's a thickness of plywood that could bend down well enough and still keep it's shape . .that'd be cool.
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DDRdre
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2065. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

$100 for lexan you are getting ripped off
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whyrph
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2066. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DDRdre wrote:
$100 for lexan you are getting ripped off


I figured as much, that's why I haven't bought it yet - can you point me to where I can get it? I hope there's a place online that's not too expensive. I'm gonna try the a local window company tomorrow, and then my network of friends, but after that my only recourse is the 'net . . .
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tolookah
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2067. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

plasticmaterial.cc
I used them once already, will use them again... they call it polycarbonate material, but its the same stuff
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whyrph
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2068. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wait - if I'm not mistaken you'll need to use 1/4" polycarb, and double-layer it, right? At least for most pads. And you need four 11x11 buttons, so you need 8 of those squares. Since they come in sizes of feet that amounts to 24x48. That' still . .50 bucks? I guess my math was wrong, because 50 is what it'd be at the other place too. Am I wrong in the estimate of lexan amount?
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tolookah
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2069. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyrph wrote:
Wait - if I'm not mistaken you'll need to use 1/4" polycarb, and double-layer it, right? At least for most pads. And you need four 11x11 buttons, so you need 8 of those squares. Since they come in sizes of feet that amounts to 24x48. That' still . .50 bucks? I guess my math was wrong, because 50 is what it'd be at the other place too. Am I wrong in the estimate of lexan amount?


1/2 inch of polycarb will stop bullets... 1/4 inch will take to people jumping on it, im currently using two 1/8th inch sheets, and no problems, i even had a big boned friend (about 350lbs) TRY to break a panel, and its still pretty good.
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whyrph
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2070. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
1/2 inch of polycarb will stop bullets... 1/4 inch will take to people jumping on it, im currently using two 1/8th inch sheets, and no problems, i even had a big boned friend (about 350lbs) TRY to break a panel, and its still pretty good.


Ah . .I was going by RipTide's design, his materials list said to use .22". Of course, he was using plexiglass and not wonderful polycarbonate, so I guess I'm ok. 24x48 of 1/8" polycarbonate runs to only $34 with shipping, so I think I can build this now for fairly cheap, especially if I can get sheet metal from my dad's work (if I'm gonna do the plastic panels I might as well make the whole thing pleasing to the eye).

I'm still hoping for a cheaper button solution, but I have a feeling it doesn't exist.
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hooded__paladin
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2071. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
1/2 inch of polycarb will stop bullets... 1/4 inch will take to people jumping on it, im currently using two 1/8th inch sheets, and no problems, i even had a big boned friend (about 350lbs) TRY to break a panel, and its still pretty good.

"big boned" What a riot.
Anywho, what design pad did you make? DDRHomepad, or Riptide/Patster, or other? Because the Riptide and Patster designs need more thickness than the DDRHomepad panels that are supported and thus can be very thin.
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tolookah
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2072. PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2004 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used my own design (i hate it right now, so im making a new design, when money comes around again, i'll build it) that has about half inch of steel around the edges holding the panels up

edit: yeah, i thought the big boned part was kinda funny too... i didnt just wanna out and say really large, so i went with big boned... although when peple call him big boned, he replies with 'no, im just fat'... go figure
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Oryan
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2073. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alrighty,

First pad, i buoght the materials yestardy and havent done anything... The total cost was $126.54 but thats without 8 of the stanely brackets (HD ran out) and a PS controller... Anyways, i bought Plexiglass (acrylic or crystillaite or something) Is that ok? Its going to brake easy aint it? Now all i gots to do is cut the wood and cut the acrylic corners... Need to borrow some tools from the ole' neighboor. riiight.gif

Edit: Riptides Design...
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whyrph
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2074. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm. .so does anyone think plywood could possibly be a replacement for Lexan with a Riptide-style pad? It would probably get rid of any chance of static problems, and I could lower the cost of the pad to well under 100 dollars, so I think I might do that. I'm just worried that the plywood, if made thin enough to bend, would lose it's shape over time . .anyone got a solution for that?
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LordPyrex
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2075. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oryan wrote:
Is that ok? Its going to brake easy aint it.



Well, it depends on how much space you will have between contacts. It will be alittle on the bendable side more than likely, but it may not necessarily break right away. In time it may start to crack and wear around the screw sites, but rather than replacing it(unless you have the money right now) just roll with it. Will still provide some action till you can get to it.
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Oryan
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2076. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, thanks for the responce. just wondering how many hours, or days, or weeks, will it most likely last? Oh yeah, i bought Weatherstripping (Meduim thinkness) that alright or should it be light or heavy?
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DBone
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2077. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oryan wrote:
Alrighty,

Anyways, i bought Plexiglass (acrylic or crystillaite or something) Is that ok? Its going to brake easy aint it?
Edit: Riptides Design...


I did too, and one of my panels had both of the pieces of plexiglass early break down the middle, I replaced one with pegboard, glued the last sheet of sheet metal to the bottomof it I had (I originally used riptides design, switched that part to DDR Homepads style connection). I also put a brace through the middle of eachof the arrow panels diagonally to add some more support to keep the arows from cracking. Thus far none of the others have cracked as a result of this. (if you do this and it decreases sensitivity you can put an extra sensor in the middle or lower the cut off 2x4 a bit so it allows the panel to flex a bit more, allowing contact to be made.)
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enjoi_skating
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2078. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyrph wrote:
Hmm. .so does anyone think plywood could possibly be a replacement for Lexan with a Riptide-style pad? It would probably get rid of any chance of static problems, and I could lower the cost of the pad to well under 100 dollars, so I think I might do that. I'm just worried that the plywood, if made thin enough to bend, would lose it's shape over time . .anyone got a solution for that?
the arrow panels arent supose to bend.they are held up with foam weatherstriping and when you step on the arrow thw weather strip gets squished down to touch the contacts.theres no bending involved.
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whyrph
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2079. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

enjoi_skating wrote:
the arrow panels arent supose to bend.they are held up with foam weatherstriping and when you step on the arrow thw weather strip gets squished down to touch the contacts.theres no bending involved.


Hmm. .so maybe my understanding of Riptide's design was wrong. I was under the impression that it goes like this:

top layer of plastic: corners cut out.
buttom layer: corners not cut out. Put below the stanely brackets and above the triangle pieces of wood and then bolted down.

So ..I was thinking I could just put plywood on top of the foam and below the stanely brackets. I think if I make the foam not very thick (support it with wood) and make it so that the plywood only has to lower, say, half a centimeter (and can't lower much further), it should work pretty well.
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